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Serbia’s long history under Ottoman rule had a significant impact on its traditional attire, but the country also underwent notable changes as it regained autonomy and sought to modernize.
Ottoman Influence: The centuries of Ottoman rule left a deep imprint on Serbian clothing, especially in urban areas and regions that were under direct Ottoman control. Traditional Serbian attire during the Ottoman period incorporated many Ottoman elements, such as:
Fez and Fes: The fez (a brimless, cylindrical hat) was worn by men in both Serbia and other Ottoman territories. Over time, local variations developed, but the fez remained a visible symbol of Ottoman influence.
Regional Variation: In rural areas, especially in southern Serbia and the regions bordering Kosovo and Herzegovinaitional dress retained more Ottoman features for a longer period. Rural men and women continued wearing dimije, jelek (a sleeveless jacket), and opanak well into the late 19th and early 20th centuries.
This is significantly different from countries such as Montenegro where autonomy existed throughout the ottoman rule. Consequently countries such as Montenegro retained their traditions as seen through the clothing.
Jezernik, Božidar. Wild Europe: The Balkans in the Gaze of Western Travellers. Saqi, 2004.
This book discusses the influence of Ottoman rule on Balkan cultures, including clothing styles in Serbia, and how these traditions persisted in rural areas for a long time.
Andrijašević, Živko. Montenegro in the Era of Petar II Petrović Njegoš. Historical Institute of Montenegro, 1996.
This work covers the autonomy of Montenegro during Ottoman rule and how it affected the preservation of local traditions, including attire.
Bartl, Peter. Albanien: Vom Mittelalter bis zur Gegenwart. Südosteuropa-Gesellschaft, 1995.
It examines the broader Balkan experience under Ottoman rule, comparing different regions and their retention of Ottoman dress styles.
Todorova, Maria N. Imagining the Balkans. Oxford University Press, 1997.
This source provides insights into how Balkan countries, including Serbia, maintained Ottoman influences in various aspects of their cultures, including fashion.
Cvetković, Srđan. Serbian Traditional Dress. Museum of Serbian Cultural History, 2009.
